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Free Video: CLP Video No. 287: Home Game Bart Reviews His Splashy At $1-$3 Deep Part 2

Free Podcast: CLP Podcast No. 54: Time Warp And Turn Value
New to Crush Live Poker?

My results as a professional thus far.......

First forum post. Certainly bragging. However, I'm no crusher. I play in soft games. In LA or Vegas I probably would make less than 10bb/hr as opposed to what I do around here. The 5-10 games I play in are either deep uncapped or match the biggest stack games. I log all 2-5. 3-5. and 5-5 games as 3-5. They're all basically the same where I play. Always at least 200bb max buy games with a match biggest stack option. Plus UTG and button straddles.

I was a profitable recreational player for many years. Then my wife and I had a kid (an now another). I left my full time gig to be a stay at home dad and play poker about 3 nights a week while my wife still works full time. These are my results after a little over 2 years. Wish I could play more hours, but it's just not possible between my family schedule and games that are available. I won't divulge where I play but It's not any of the big poker hubs. Smaller cardrooms around me that have a big game run once or twice a week. These types of places really are gold mines. They ability to get to know all the local players well and exploit each one differently is HUGE.

I've been listening to Bart since Cash Plays and I certainly would not be where I am today in poker if not for him. I've done a lot of work on my game myself but Bart/CLP is the backbone of my poker knowledge.

I think 80-90% of what you can win comes from these basic elements:
1. Preflop discipline and setting up good situations: This doesn't mean being a huge nit. I do play pretty tight, but I rely heavily on position. Tight early. Aggressive late. If you have problems controlling yourself, make a rigid preflop strategy and don't allow yourself to deviate. Ranges from each position you will limp/raise/call. It's not fun but I've reverted back to it many times. If I've gotten too loose or feel tilting, I just impose that rule on myself not to deviate. When I'm comfortable again, I'll widen my ranges. I often go back to my basic preflop plan charts and continue to make tweaks.
2. Mental game: Not only controlling yourself but seeing what's going on at the table. Just pay attention and know who may be steaming. Call them lighter and value bet heavier.
3. Basic hand reading: I'm still trying to improve and often fail to see what is obvious once the hand is over, but do your best to slow down and think about the entire hand action.
4. Value betting: Bet-fold, bet-fold, bet-fold.
5. Solid flop play: When to Cbet bluff and when not to. When to slowplay (rarely) and when not to. Really thinking hard about sizing and how your opponent will react with their range.
6. Knowing your opponents: Takes notes on the regulars. Make a plan for exploiting each one.

That's it. Have some self-discipline and listen to the advice you get on this site. Huge bluffs, hero calls, 3-betting ranges, tells.....that's all very interesting but it's the last 10-20%. If you're not super solid with the basics you shouldn't even be thinking about that stuff. It will just cloud your brain. Work on the stuff that comes up ALL the time. My game isn't glamorous, but it pays the bills and has very little variance. Maybe someday I'll be a lag wizard, but I've got a LOT to work on before I get there.
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Comments

  • nofriends333 Posts: 882Troll
    edited August 2017
    One of the new CLP members was giving me sound advice on playing $1 $2 cash . We were texting each other via private messages on CLP . Great guy played at Sugarhouse in Philly $2 $5 Very much into chess I think he dropped off face of the earth or became a pro chess player because i havent been able to get in touch with him for awhile but he suggested the nit nut peddling technique waiting for premium hands Kinda long but i would appreciate your input

    PREFLOP STRATEGY

    TT+, AJ+, ATs, KQs -- If nobody has raised yet, I enter the pot with a $15 raise no matter which position I'm in.

    77-99, KQo, KJ, KTs, QJ, QTs, JTs -- I'll enter for $15 if I'm in LJ, HJ, CO, or BTN. Anything earlier I tend to fold since these hands are too weak and never forget our strategy revolves around nut peddling.

    If someone 3-bets on top of your raise, 4-bet with QQ+ and AK. Make sizing about 2.5x or just jam all in if you aren't too deep. You can call with AQ and JJ to see what happens. If their 3-bet is small you can proceed with caution with hands like AJ and KQ and TT-JJ but be prepared to fold if the flop isn't favorable.

    If anyone else has already raised before you, 3-bet with TT+, AQ+. Sizing should be 3x of whatever they raised. You can call speculative hands if the amount to call is <5% of the effective stack. Speculative hands are small pairs and suited connectors.

    If someone 4-bets you (over your 3-bet), 5-bet jam with AA and KK. I tend to fold JJ. QQ and AK are tough ones. If it's a tight nitty player, I fold. If it's a loosey goosey or a maniac I will call to see what flops. However, if you don't have many chips left you can jam the QQ and AK also.

    If you're in LJ, HJ, CO, or BTN and nobody has raised (all folds or limps) you can limp in with speculative hands like small pocket pairs <66 or suited connectors.

    FLOP STRATEGY

    If you were the last aggressor pre-flop (will happen often with our strategy) follow the c-betting guidelines below:

    If you are multiway (4 or more players to the flop) you should bet when you flop a strong made hand like true 2-pair or better. DO NOT slow play because people can catch up to beat you.

    I also like to bet when I have a draw of 12 outs or more (usually flush and straight combo or a flush draw with a pair).

    I tend to check/call with draws that have 8 or 9 outs (OESD, double gutshots, or flush draws).

    Do NOT overplay your one pair hands. They are usually no good in multiway pots.

    If you are heads up (hopefully you get this scenario a lot!), ALWAYS c-bet the flop. Hit or miss just bet. Use 2/3 pot. THERE IS AN EXCEPTION: If your opponent is a calling station that literally calls everything, if you missed the flop you should just check since you're never getting him to fold. Against all normal players or tight players, c-bet all your range because 60% of the time they have missed the flop and will probably fold.

    If you are 3-ways to the flop and you missed the flop, c-bet if you're last to act and both players have checked to you. AGAIN, don't do this when there is a total calling station is there since he won't fold. If you hit a strong hand like top pair or better, c-bet no matter what position you're in. Use about 1/2 pot since you're gonna have a larger pot than when you're heads up.

    If you were NOT the last aggressor pre-flop (you just called someone or limped in) then you should generally check to the last aggressor. Play your strong hands, give up with your weak hands.

    TURN STRATEGY

    If you find yourself at the turn and you think you have the best made hand, bet! 1/2 pot on safe boards, 2/3 on draw heavy boards to make it expensive for draws to chase.

    If you got called on the flop and the turn doesn't help you, you should usually give up and just check/fold. Live to fight another day.

    However, there are some scenarios you should fire a second bullet.

    1. If you turn a draw of 8 outs or more.
    2. If the turn brings a scary overcard. What do I mean? Let's say the board was like T,8,4 -- you c-bet with AJ and villain called. Turn is a KING. You should fire out again because your opponent most likely won't have a king, but it looks like you could easily have it and scare them off.

    RIVER STRATEGY

    I keep this simple.

    If you think you have the best hand, value bet. Don't go for check-raises because they often check back and you lose value.

    If you have nothing, check/fold and give up. I am not a fan of triple barrel bluffing. It won't work in 1/2 often enough to be profitable.

    If you have a marginal hand that may or may not be best (bluff catcher), just check or check-call. I'm not a huge fan of thin-value because you might get blown off your hand by a raise.
  • neverlearn2 Posts: 2,842Subscriber
    Good stuff OP. Haha. Congrats man that sounds really good for being mainly 5/5 I'm assuming.
  • Lame_Name Posts: 22Subscriber
    Thanks NEVERLEARN. The graph is actually 800 hours 5-10 and 600 hours 5-5.
  • Lame_Name Posts: 22Subscriber
    nofriends - Here's my response to your post. I may have made it sound like my game is more robotic than it is. I do have a preflop plan that I can revert back to if I feel uncomfortable or tilted, but don't get too tied to this. You need to adjust to the players at the table. Are they calling any 2 but let it go easily if they don't connect with the flop? Then start getting aggressive and opening lots of hands. Are they playing tight and then never folding overpairs? Then tighten up too and hammer your value hands only. I will say in my opinion any offsuit cards lower than AJo and KQo are not good enough hands to open raise unless you can really have a skill edge over your opponents. You need to dump those. Think about it this way. If you raise KJo or ATo, are any dominated hands calling you? I think most of your opponents dump KTo and A9o but call with KQo and AJo. That puts you in a really bad spot out of position postflop.

    I do have all the pairs, suited aces, and suited broadway in my open range from all positions unless it's always going multiway to flop. In that case I'll sometimes limp small pairs and suited aces. Late position I start adding all kinds of things vs bad limpers like 86s or QJo.

    I can't speak much for 1-2, but unless it's Vegas and rake is cheap (% of pot), then you do generally have to play super tight to just beat the rake.

    Regarding the flop, it's more complicated than this. Listen to the CLP podcast #78 on Cbetting. That is how you should be thinking on the flop.

    Regarding the turn/river strategy. I'll be honest. I don't like the mentality. It's more complicated than this and you need to get away from trying to make a robotic strategy. I'm not going to disagree with anything you said, but I recommend a more dynamic approach. For turn/river it's now all about hand reading and where it gets tough. Players how have a rigid postflop strategy and don't do hand reading are the ones I love to exploit. They have lots of bet sizing tells or spots where they check and call that let me really narrow their range down and hurt them. They always play draws this way, or protect hands this way, or slowplay these types of hands........easy to spot and exploit. Play off your opponents range and start thinking less about standard lines you should take postflop.

    After writing this I can see how my advice might seem contradictory. "Play tight and follow some standard approach to preflop/flop.......don't be robotic and play your opponents hand". Yeah, that a little confusing. For me I do think I can be a little robotic preflop/flop and then become all about hand reading on turn/river to make my decisions. Basically it's hard to narrow your opponents range down until they've made an action preflop and on flop. Once you get past that point, that's when you can really start to figure our what they have and adjust accordingly.

  • BartBart Posts: 5,917AdministratorLeadPro
    Congrats. This is a good bit of data. What area of the country are you playing at if you don't mind me asking?

    Bart
  • Lame_Name Posts: 22Subscriber
    Thanks Bart. Small town central California. We actually spoke on the phone a couple months back. I got a free lesson from submitting a customer achievement story. I was the guy who had questions about squeezing from the blinds for value with AK/AQ. Worried I was folding out dominated hands and just getting called by pairs and not sure how to approach this. Your advice helped.

    I don't stray far from home but if I make it back to LA I'll try to say thanks in person. If you ever drive north to drink wine, hit me up and dinner/wine is on me.
  • neverlearn2 Posts: 2,842Subscriber
    edited August 2017
    Bro...small town rooms are nice haha
  • nofriends333 Posts: 882Troll
    edited August 2017
    Not contradictory at all Lame i appreciate the feedback. The guy who gave me the advice was only trying to help but he had mentioned to me in other messages that he had some real bad sessions at times which tells me that his strategy is not etched in stone and every session is player dependent Also the fact that i havent heard from him lately could mean that he gave up poker for awhile and concentrating more on another game he loves which is chess
  • hustlin Posts: 299Subscriber
    congrats on the results and the very nice hourly. great post! enjoyed reading
  • nofriends333 Posts: 882Troll
    I was in a hand this morning where a guy UTG raised He c bet when it was folded around to him flop was 22K or 2 7 K not sure but i know K hit the flop with 2 small cards kinda of a one and done Bart spoke about in the podcast . Am i correct to assume he had a big hand if he raised from UTG or was he C bet bluffing with medium strength hand?
  • sivaddivad Posts: 339Subscriber
    What's more impressive than the results is the low std dev an hour! Never seen a number so low at those stakes.. insanely consistent!
  • Lame_Name Posts: 22Subscriber
    Thanks. Didn't know what low std dev would be but I've been told I'm weirdly consistent in my results. Reasons for sure are 1) Games are very soft and competition is not aggressive. Ultimate easy bet-fold game. 2) I don't tilt off money 3) I usually choose the low variance route because I don't want the stress. If someone raises me in a spot where I can profitably call a draw but perhaps more profitably shove, I'm usually calling. Stupidly, most still call when I do shove, and the ones that don't are the only ones I'll ever run a big bluff on.

    Went on a huge heater last few months. Feels like I flop a set 1/4 of the time. Updated results. Gonna be scary when I eventually run as bad as my current run good.
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  • ThehammahThehammah Posts: 7,086Subscriber
    You have played 1500 hours so far this year? #impressed
  • neverlearn2 Posts: 2,842Subscriber
    Jesus man. Congrats
  • sivaddivad Posts: 339Subscriber
    edited October 2017
    Yea. Most std dev numbers I have seen range in the 80-100 bb an hour. In fact, if you are lower, you are usually playing too tight, but with results like that, who cares! Well done, sir.
  • sivaddivad Posts: 339Subscriber
    edited October 2017
    Also, I actually think you bring up a good point around playing draws passively. Because people call so much, it raises implied odds to a level that probably makes playing them passively more profitable in your games than trying to get folds.

    I just posted on this in an old fold equity thread. I think that people can over estimate the profitability of playing them aggressively when they don't take the EV of just calling properly into account--i.e., they don't realize that the fold% needed is higher than they think to make raising profitable.
  • Lame_Name Posts: 22Subscriber
    Thehammah said:
    You have played 1500 hours so far this year? #impressed
    Nah. This starts in June 2015. I’m only able to get in 15-20 hours per week unfortunately because of when games run and my family schedule.
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